Texas RV Travel : Journeys : Hill Country
Luckenbach
In September 2006, we drove a leisurely Texas Hill Country back roads ramble through Wimberley to Blanco to Fredericksburg. We sidetracked so that Michael could see Luckenbach. The town, really just a dancehall, post office and a creek, was made famous by the song Luckenbach, Texas, sung by Waylon Jennings and Willie Nelson.
Fredericksburg
Fredericksburg
is a town built by German immigrants in the mid-1800s. The town is laid out with
precision: Main Street will accommodate a U-turn by a wagon pulled by a team of
16 horses; from the center of town toward the west, the first letter of each
street spells out COME BACK; to the east from downtown, the first letter of each
street spells WELCOME.
The
center of Fredericksburg is the MarketPlatz, and the heart of MarketPlatz is the
Vereins Kirche (community church). The Vereins Kirche is now a museum with
exhibits focusing on the history of the area and rotating photographic exhibits.
The historic part of Fredericksburg is anchored by The Admiral Nimitz Museum. There are many historic buildings in the downtown area. Surrounding neighborhoods sport log cabins and homes with gingerbread trim, shake shingles and huge trees. Fredericksburg is a very clean and beautiful town.
Renewable Energy Roundup & Green Living Fair
On Saturday morning, we attended the Seventh Annual Renewable Energy Roundup, held at MarketPlatz. It was raining and then the weather turned hot and humid. We walked through the fair, viewing exhibits, asking questions about rainwater harvesting and solar power, and visiting friends.
Willow City Loop
After lunch, we drove the 13-mile long serpentine Willow City Loop, one of
the wildest roads in Texas. Pictured below is the view from the highest point on
the country road before we descended into the breaks carved by Coal Creek.
As
we descended into the canyon, we saw huge gray and pink granite boulders tossed
around like the building blocks of some giant petulant child.
Then
we passed smooth stones scattered about the landscape. Legend has it that the
smooth rocks are stars that fell into this valley.
Tall
cliffs shaded the dense undergrowth, natural grasses and pools of water left by
the rain. Cattle guards rattled our undercarriage, but protected the horses,
sheep and deer that wander freely in this protected valley.
Enchanted Rock
We passed through a millennia of geologic history, including a serpentine quarry, before the road ended at Highway 16. Where Willow City Loop ends is a short drive to Enchanted Rock State Natural Area.
Take a Ride on the F&N RR
Sunday, on the drive home, we followed the
route of The
Fredericksburg and Northern Railroad (F&N RR). This railroad
reduced the commute from San Antonio to Fredericksburg from two weeks by wagon
to one day by train. Expensive to build and maintain, the railroad was shut down
as soon as highways made train travel obsolete.
As you leave Fredericksburg on 290E, turn right on Old San Antonio Road to
retrace the path of the F&N RR.
Many
farm homes, log cabins and rock walls that predate the railroad remain today.
You pass ghost towns that were once thriving railroad towns: Cain City,
Grapetown and Bankersmith, to name the ones whose remains you may still view
today. After Bankersmith you will notice you are steadily climbing. This is the
divide between the watersheds of the Pedernales and Guadalupe Rivers. Once past
Bankersmith, you will see the raised roadbed of the railroad. For the next ten
miles the road and the rail bed will cross many times.
Stop
at the Old Tunnel Wildlife Management Area, about four miles past
Bankersmith. Rather than climb the divide, the railroad engineers decided they
must pass through this hill. The tunnel is now home to over 3000 Brazilian
Free-Tail Bats.
Bridge to Nowhere
As you continue, you will come to a junction with FM 473. Continue straight ahead towards Comfort. Turn left at the first small road, River Bend Road. Continue on as the road narrows and sweeps toward the Guadalupe River. Soon you will see a railroad bridge, still standing proud after 100 years.
Continue on this River Bend Road and you will come to a low water crossing over the Guadalupe. From this vantage point, you may appreciate the size of this bridge.
Notice there is not a rail bed nor road leading to or from this bridge. The bridge leads to nowhere. It is but a phantom of the Fredericksburg and Northern Railroad, left behind when the tracks were pulled up in 1944 and shipped to Australia and Alaska.
To return to civilization you may continue on River Bend Road to until it ends at a T. Go to the left and you will return to FM 473.
Updated 02/18/2011